"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things
you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the
bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in
your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." [Mark Twain]
"Tibet is simply one of the most remarkable places in Asia. It offers
fabulous monasteries, breathtaking high-altitude treks, stunning
views of the worlds's highest mountains and one of the most likable
peoples." [Opening of Lonely Planet, Tibet]
Panoramic view of Himalaya's highest peaks from the Pang La Pass
(5150m) south of Tingri in Tibet (click for larger picture).
The route:
China: Fly to Beijing, party with friends, prepare
mentally, get permits, and fly to Lhasa.
Tibet: See monasteries and markets and travel across the
plateau to experience Tibetan life.
Himalayas: Drive to Rongbuk Monastary and hike up to
Mount Everest Base Camp North.
Nepal: Relax in Kathmandu, savoring the change in altitude
and culture (disbanding group).
Bhutan: Get involved (and give lectures) in ethereal
Bhutan, home of the thunder dragon.
India: Enjoy Darjeeling and Tiger Hill view before catching
night train to colonial Kolkata.
For a more detailed description of the route, please consult the
map and route page.
For an outline of the calender for planing, please consult the
calender page.
The team:
Troels C. Petersen
Insatiable adventurer, particle physicist, photographer, and
(wannabe) poet. Loves studying possible exotic travels from an
armchair. For further (sailing) details, see the
Skardu crew listing.
Christian B. Andersen
Accomplished photographer (on several trips) and also the medicine
man of this trip. With a kean eye for adventurous travels and great
photo shots, Christian's only fear is long train rides.
Christian Hededal
Our man in the busy banking business, however with a heart for travels
and hanging out with friends. Kean on high altitudes and trekking,
and always up for a beer. Christian does not require much sleep!
Jesper Rasmussen
Keen explorer and with a wish for high altitude trekking, and in for any new
travel experiences. Known to remain solidly calm even under
difficult circumstances, and with much cullinary knowledge.
The photos:
A few pictures of what we are to expect are shown below (click for large
photo). Needless to say, they only give a vague representation of
the immaculate beauty of the regions we will traverse.
The logbook (if possible):
Though we doubt that it will be even remotely possible, here is
never the less the attemt at reporting back our latest position
and adventures.
We hope that these are enjoyable, as they will surely cost us
considerable technical pains, the last battery power, and part of
our nights sleep!
16th of May (Cph and Moscow)
17th of May (Beijing)
18th of May (Beijing)
19th of May (Beijing)
20th of May (Beijing)
21st of May (Lhasa)
22nd of May (Lhasa)
23rd of May (Lhasa)
24th of May (Lhasa and Gyantse)
25th of May (Gyantse and Shigatse)
26th of May (Shigatse)
27th of May (Shigatse and Bebar)
28th of May (Bebar and Everest Base Camp)
29th of May (Everest Base Camp and Old Tingri)
30th of May (Old Tingri and Kathmandu)
31st of May (Kathmandu)
1st of June (Kathmandu)
This is the end of the adventures of the Trans-Tibetan fellowship.
The following logs are from the continued travels of Troels
in Bhutan and India.
2nd of June (Kathmandu, Paro and Thimphu)
3rd of June (Thimphu)
4th of June (Thimphu and Phuentsholing)
5th of June (Phuentsholing)
6th of June (Phuentsholing and Gangtok)
7th of June (Gangtok and Darjeeling)
8th of June (Darjeeling and New Jalpaiguri)
9th of June (Kolkata)
10th of June (Kolkata)
11th of June (Qatar)
12th of June (Berlin and Copenhagen)
The Tallest, smallest, largest, fastest, and drunkest:
The following is a compilation of records, firsts, and counts on our
Himalayan Adventure. Especially the Yak dish list defines the culinary
part of the trip!
Geographical records:

Highest altitude: 5548m (hiking up from Pang/Gawu La at 5180m).
      2nd highest altitude: 5379m (hiking up from Gyatso La at 5248m).
      3rd highest altitude: 5173m (hiking up from Karo La at 5039m).

Lowest altitude (in Tibet): Lhasa (3600m) or possibly Nepali border (2000m).

Highest gain in altitude by trekking: 368m (from 5180m to 5548m)

Highest altitude change in a day: 4600m (from 5200m to 600m)

Furthest overland in one day: Old Tingri to Kathmandu (284km, 8 hours of driving!)

First rain: None in Tibet (but "afternoon Monsoom" in Kathmandu)

Highest temperature (in Tibet): 26 (in Lhasa) compared to 32 (and humid in Nepal)

Lowest temperature: -5 (Everest Base Camp - estimate)

Number of times reaching above 5000m: 6 (Karo La, Gyatso La, Pang/Gawu La, Rongbuk and EBC, Everest-Tingri wasteland, Tung La)

Number of times sleeping above 5000m: 1 (Everest Base Camp)

Number of mountains seen above 8000m: 5 (Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma)
Culinary records:

Most frequent dish: Vegetable noodle soup (at least 15 times!)

Number of different yak dishes: 17 of which we tasted 11 (see the "Yak dish list")

Best dish with yak: Yak Stroganoff (suprisingly).

Worst dish with yak: Yak burger (lunch by Sakya monastery), but otherwise good.
Other peculiarities:

Highest stray dogs to humans ratio: Old Tingri (our estimate is 1:1)

Longest time without power and running water: 3 days (from Bebar to Kathmandu).

Most troubles with Chinese authorities: Everywhere (from Beijing airport to Nepali border)

First (and only) illness: Christian Hededal (1/2 day down in Lhasa)

Least warm clothes: Troels (packed before we got permits, so unsure of destination!)

Most fancy "party" shirts: 7 (Troels)

Best misunderstanding: "Lap dance?" (Christian Andersen, mis-hearing "Yak dance")

Highest ratio of books in luggage: Troels (7 guide books and 3 pieces of litterature in smallest luggage)

Drunkest: Us (in Kathmandu!), barring a British guy dangling down the stairs in Sam's Bar.
Yak dish list:
The following is a compilation of the dishes involving yak that
we came across. Those marked with "*" were tested.

Yak dumplings (*)

Yak noddle (*)

Yak spring rolls

Yak curry (**) - a classic!

Yak potato stew (*)

Yak and onions (*)

Yak steak (*)

Yak tounge

Yak sizzler (*)

Yak burger (**) - a Western oriented classic!

Yak meatball

Yak blini (*) - partially "constructed" by Troels.

Yak liver pate (best shot at "Fois Yak")

Yak tatar (a real killer!)

Yak chaumein (*)

Yak Stroganof (*) - this was our best yak meal.

Yak Bourgignon (We ordered this, but they had "run out" - Gordon Ramsey would have been furious!)
Now, we are only waiting to come across "Yak au vin" somewhere :-)
In addition to yak dishes, the Tibetans also use yak for other culinaries:
Associate culinary use:

Yak butter (*)

Yak butter the (*)

Yak cheese sweets (*) - really crunchy!
Himalayan Adventures - Best Quotes
"Kan vi ikke få puttet noget mere yak-dong på bålet?" [C. Andersen, kold morgen i Everest Base Camp]
"Er der uorden i piberne?" [T. Petersen, kritisk om lakridspiberne (efter 100km bumpet grusvej!)]
"Jamen, så blander jeg mig da bare helt udenom!" [J. Rasmussen, efter et fototeknisk forslag forkastet af alle andre!]
"Jeg skal fand'me ikke have nogen af de der urter!" [C. Hededal, efter at have fået udleveret tibetansk medicin (urter)]